Day 10 & 11
Church Run
The Full Monti
Augustus to the NY Times
Before I start Day 10, here are two drawings that I did during the Tulane walk. This one at Trajan's column looking at the cupola of S. Maria di Loreto
and a quick sketch of one the beautiful draped figures in the Trajan's Market Museum
Thursday - Off into Trastevere, with of churches to see! First stop, Santa Maria in Trastevere dating from the 12 C
Incredible gilded wooden ceiling by Domenichino (1617)
Many of these Boroque ceilings were "hung" from earlier Byzetine ceilings
Beautiful mosiacs in the triumphal arch
Baldacchino over the high alter by Virginio Vespignani
21 vast ancient columns reused from various Roman buildings
More street art for Perry on the way to the City Center
On the way, I came across this little box canyon of a courtyard, with this little church
Inside of which were of course treasures
With Berlosconi maybe heading to jail, Greece in a tailspin, the US government closing, and Roma winning in football, there is lots to read
Campo Dei Fiori - a daily market that is hard to avoid.......
Next church stop to see an exploding ceiling
It is like it is exploding.
To Musseo Di Roma - Pallazzo Braschi - to see the Robert Capa photography show
The stairway up to the galleries
Capa - a brave and heoric photographer who caught indellible images of American troups and their interaction with Italian citizens. My snaps of the photos are not great, so google Robert Capa and see the pictures for yourself
There are of course other beautiful things to see at this museum
Back down the steps and into Piazza Navonna
More carbienari hard at work.
My pilgramage a' Mikela (my Vatican guide) takes me to San Luigi dei Francesci, the French National Church (1518 - 89) Facade by Giacomo della Porta
The interior is best described as encrusted with fantastical layers of color and meaning
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More elegantly dressed men seemingly not working, just hanging out and gesticulating .
Pantheon sighting on my search of a special pen shop
Should I wave to her? I think not.......
Alora - Penne Stilografiche Stilo Fetti - founded in 1893!!
The search begins for the Auroa, pearl finish, rosa..........per me Padre
Three great men at work in this little shop!
Wrapping the present for Grandpa Gerry
Then off to the next church thanks to Mikela - Santa Maria Maddelana with its Rococo facade by Giuseppe Sardi
Statues of Virtues
Then a discovery - the Basilica di S. Lorenzo in Lucina
Ghirabaldi lived on this piazza
Then, thanks to Susan Whiley of Olin Parthnership, lunch a recommended lunch at Osteria dell Anima
with a nice view
and spaghetti a crab - a WHOLE crab!
Across from lunch was this church
Which was on the way to S. Maria Della Pache
which has adjacent to it, this courtyard by Bramante
Where Brian Kelly told me to go because the courtyard has a sweet modern cafe on the piano nobile
The cafe
The courtyard
For Brian!
Priests at work over coffee
Bello
A suprise around every corner
Thanks to Mikela - San Luigi de Francesi
With an extrodinary Carravagio - darkness was never lighter and more pure
..........and a Raphael
Back to the AAR for an art opening, shower and change of clothes, then off again into the city
Rione Monti is one the hippest and the most " real" and "roman" neighborhood in the historic center, right behind the Colosseum.
These are some links and articles about Monti :
NY Times:
In Rome, Monti Is a Quiet Treasure
NYTimes :
In Rome, a Place for Romans
Travel+Leisure:
Europe's Best Neighborhoods for Foodies
Budget Travel:
Neighborhood watch: Monti, Rome
We met at 7:30pm for aperitivo ( Spritz !!) in the
piazzetta with the fountain, there is a nice bar with outdoor seating.
We then walked to Via Urbana and ate at
Urban 47 .
After dinner ( if we still have energy ! ) we could go to the
Charity Cafe' for some music.
Michael, Marcella, Giovanna and Domique
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